Glossy green leaves on top, wine-red underneath, and red stems holding the whole rosette together. Peperomia Rosso is one of those small plants that makes people lean in for a closer look.
It stays compact, it is happy on a desk or shelf, and it asks for very little. Get the watering right and most of the work is done. Here is how to grow it.
Peperomia Rosso Quick Care Tips
- Botanical name: Peperomia ‘Eden Rosso’ (its U.S. plant patent gives Peperomia marmorata × metallica); widely sold and listed as Peperomia caperata ‘Rosso’
- Common names: Peperomia Rosso, Eden Rosso, radiator plant (a nickname for the whole genus)
- Family: Piperaceae, the black pepper family
- Origin: Selected in the Netherlands in 2010 (plant patent); Peperomia caperata itself is native to Brazil
- Growability: Easy, low maintenance
- Hardiness zones: USDA 11 to 12 for Peperomia caperata (Missouri Botanical Garden; NC State lists 11a to 12b)
- Size: Compact rosette; Peperomia caperata grows about 8 inches tall and wide (Missouri Botanical Garden)
- Flowering: Thin spikes of tiny flowers on red stalks; not showy
- Light: Bright, indirect light; no direct sun; does well under fluorescent lights
- Temperature: Keep it above 60°F (Missouri Botanical Garden, for Peperomia caperata); no cold drafts
- Water: Let the soil dry out between waterings (Clemson); water less in fall and winter
- Humidity: Average home humidity is fine; a humidifier helps in dry winter air
- Soil: Well-drained houseplant or cactus potting mix
- Fertilizer: Light feeding in spring and summer only
- Propagation: Stem or leaf cuttings in spring
- Pests: Mealybugs, spider mites, whiteflies, fungus gnats, scale
- Pets: Clemson says most peperomias are considered safe for pets; the ASPCA lists Peperomia caperata as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses
What Is Peperomia Rosso?
Here is a plant with a small identity puzzle. NC State Extension lists Rosso as a cultivar of Peperomia caperata, the emerald ripple peperomia. NC State describes ‘Rosso’ as having thin, pointed dark green leaves that are red on the underside.
The plant’s own paperwork tells a different story. U.S. Plant Patent PP24,379, issued by the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office for a peperomia named ‘Eden Rosso’, says it was selected as a seedling from a planned cross between Peperomia marmorata (the seed parent) and Peperomia metallica (the pollen parent).
The breeder, Obed J. Smit, made the cross in June 2010 and selected the plant that August at a commercial greenhouse in Sappemeer, the Netherlands. Google Patents lists the patent as active until 2032.
Propagating a few for your own windowsill is one thing; propagating for sale is another, so check with the patent holder first.
The patent compares ‘Eden Rosso’ with Peperomia caperata ‘Schumi Red’ and lists the differences: a green upper leaf instead of purple-red, an oblong rather than heart-shaped leaf, shallower veins, a red leaf underside and a red leaf stalk.
NC State’s short description and the patent’s agree on the look: green on top, red underneath. You may see it labeled Peperomia caperata ‘Rosso’ or ‘Eden Rosso’.
The care advice below comes from extension and botanical garden guidance for Peperomia caperata and for peperomias in general.
Size and Leaves
The patent describes glossy green upper leaf surfaces, red undersides, red leaf stalks and deep veins that make the leaf blade ripple between them. The leaves grow in a tight rosette and average about 2 inches (5 cm) long and a little over half an inch (1.5 cm) wide, ovate to oblong with a pointed tip.
It stays small. The Missouri Botanical Garden says Peperomia caperata grows to about 8 inches tall and as wide, and NC State gives 6 to 8 inches tall. Clemson Extension says ripple peperomia grows to 10 inches tall and wide.
Flowers
Rosso does flower, though nobody grows it for the blooms. The patent describes spikes about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7 cm) tall on reddish stalks, packed with hundreds of tiny flowers that have no petals.
It calls the plant a short-day bloomer that normally flowers when it gets less than 12 hours of light a day, and says the spikes last one to two months on the plant.
The Missouri Botanical Garden says Peperomia caperata’s whitish-green spikes appear in summer and early fall, and that the flower stalks are said to look like mouse tails.
Clemson Extension says peperomia flower spikes are considered unattractive and that removing them lets the plant put its energy into leaves. Snip them or leave them; that is your call.
Peperomia Rosso Care
Light
Bright, indirect light is the sweet spot. NC State Extension says medium light, such as sun filtered through a thin curtain, is ideal for Peperomia caperata, and that the plant tolerates low light for several months without stress.
Clemson Extension suggests indirect light from an east- or south-facing window, says peperomias can tolerate somewhat low light near a large north-facing window, and warns that direct sun may scorch the leaves.
The Missouri Botanical Garden names a north or east window as the best indoor spot and says to avoid direct afternoon sun.
No good window? No problem. The Missouri Botanical Garden says Peperomia caperata thrives under fluorescent lights, and NC State says it performs well under bright fluorescent lights, which makes it a natural fit for offices.
Temperature
Keep it above 60°F. That is the minimum winter temperature the Missouri Botanical Garden recommends for Peperomia caperata, and it says to avoid wetness and cold winter temperatures.
For peperomias in general, the RHS gives a warm room of about 65 to 86°F (18 to 30°C) and says to keep them always above 50°F (10°C).
NC State Extension says to protect peperomias from cold drafts and notes that the common name “radiator plant” reflects their preference for warm conditions. In practice, that means no spots by drafty windows or doors that open to winter air.
Want to give it a summer outdoors? Clemson Extension says you can move peperomias outside once night temperatures stay at 60°F or higher, usually in May. Start them in deep shade, then keep them in a bright, shady spot out of direct sun for the summer.
Watering
Here is where most peperomias get into trouble. Clemson Extension says peperomia prefers to dry out between waterings and will drop its leaves if it is overwatered. UF/IFAS Extension gives the same advice for the baby rubber plant: err on the dry side.
Dry does not mean bone dry, though. The Missouri Botanical Garden says to water Peperomia caperata moderately but consistently during the growing season, letting the topsoil almost dry before watering again, and to reduce watering from fall through winter. NC State says the species will not tolerate wet soil or very dry soil.
So skip the calendar and check the soil with your finger. When it has dried, water well, and let the excess drain out before you set the pot back in its saucer, as Clemson recommends.
Two more habits help. Clemson says fungal leaf spots can be prevented by keeping the leaves dry when you water. And University of Illinois Extension lists watering from below and keeping the soil on the dry side among the ways to prevent Phytophthora rot in peperomias.
Humidity
Ordinary household humidity suits this plant. NC State says peperomias can thrive in the humidity levels of most homes and suggests a humidifier if your home is very dry, and it lists medium to low relative humidity as ideal for Peperomia caperata. Clemson says a humidifier helps in winter.
The Missouri Botanical Garden takes a moister view: it says Peperomia caperata likes high humidity in summer and suggests setting the pot on wet pebbles and misting frequently. Keep in mind that Clemson ties fungal leaf spot to wet leaves, so a pebble tray or a humidifier adds moisture without wetting the foliage.
Feeding
Go light. Clemson Extension says to fertilize peperomia only when it is actively growing in spring and summer, either with a low-strength liquid fertilizer used occasionally or with a slow-release granular fertilizer once a year.
The Missouri Botanical Garden suggests feeding Peperomia caperata once a month during the growing season and stopping from fall through winter. Either way, follow the label for the amount, and give the plant a rest in the cooler months.
Soil and Repotting
Drainage matters more than anything else in the pot. Clemson Extension recommends a well-drained houseplant or cactus potting mix, and NC State says to use a porous, well-draining potting soil because Peperomia caperata is susceptible to root rot. The Missouri Botanical Garden suggests a peaty potting mix. A bagged succulent potting mix works well.
You may hear that peperomias are parasites that feed on trees. They are not. Some types of peperomia grow on trees as epiphytes, and the Missouri Botanical Garden calls Peperomia caperata an epiphytic plant. Clemson explains that epiphytes grow on another plant for support and do not harm the host.
Repotting is rarely urgent. NC State says peperomias are slow-growing and will not need repotting often, and Clemson says a peperomia can stay in the same pot for several years. When you do move it up, Clemson suggests a pot only slightly larger than the one it came in. The patent describes the roots as fibrous and fine, so handle the root ball gently.
Grooming
Clemson Extension says to trim off old leaves when needed, and the Missouri Botanical Garden says to cut back foliage as needed to keep the plant’s shape. Dust dulls those glossy leaves, so wipe them now and then with a soft, damp cloth.
How to Propagate Peperomia Rosso
Want more Rossos? The Missouri Botanical Garden and NC State both recommend stem or leaf cuttings in spring. Clemson Extension’s steps are simple. Our guide to propagation of Peperomia has more.
Stem Cuttings
- Cut a 3- to 5-inch piece of stem from the parent plant.
- Remove the leaves on the lower third of the cutting.
- Dip the stem in rooting hormone, then insert it into potting soil or a rooting medium.
- Cover with clear plastic and keep it out of direct sunlight.
Leaf Cuttings
- Remove a leaf with at least an inch of its leaf stalk (petiole).
- Insert the stalk into a rooting medium.
- New plants form at the base of the stalk.
- Once they have grown, separate and pot them up.
Be patient. The patent says Rosso cuttings start rooting in about 21 days at about 20°C (68°F) and take about 84 days to become a rooted cutting.
Start clean, too. University of Illinois Extension says peperomia ring spot virus usually spreads through cuttings taken from infected plants that look healthy, and recommends taking cuttings only from known healthy plants and rooting them in sterilized mix.
Peperomia Rosso Pests and Diseases
A healthy Rosso has few problems, and most of them start with watering. NC State lists whiteflies, mealybugs and spider mites as pests of Peperomia caperata.
Clemson adds fungus gnats and scale. Watch for mealybugs as white, cottony tufts and spider mites as fine stippling on the leaves.
Watering affects these pests in opposite ways. The University of California IPM program says spider mite damage is usually worst in hot, dusty conditions and on water-stressed plants.
Its fungus gnat guide says fungus gnats thrive in moist conditions and advises avoiding overwatering and providing good drainage.
Root rot. Clemson Extension says overwatering causes root rot, the most common peperomia disease. Drain the pot after watering and let the plant dry out between waterings.
Leaf spot. Clemson says you can prevent fungal leaf spots by keeping the leaves dry when you water, and NC State adds that good air circulation helps.
Stem and cutting rots. University of Illinois Extension says Phytophthora rot blackens the stem at the soil line, and that cutting rot can also be caused by Rhizoctonia solani and Pythium.
The patent notes that ‘Eden Rosso’ is sensitive to Rhizoctonia. Illinois recommends avoiding overwatering and heavy, poorly drained mixes.
Ring spot. Illinois describes peperomia ring spot as concentric brown rings that disfigure the leaves, caused by a virus, and reports it on Peperomia obtusifolia. Diseased plants will not recover, it says, so discard them.
Read more about radiator plant pests and diseases.
Growing yours outdoors in a frost-free garden? Watch for slugs and snails. The University of California IPM program suggests beer traps buried at ground level, checked daily, and says baits containing ferric sodium EDTA work much like iron phosphate baits, only somewhat faster.
Is Peperomia Rosso Toxic to Pets?
Good news for pet owners. Clemson Extension says most peperomias are considered safe for pets and points readers to the ASPCA’s plant list. The ASPCA lists Peperomia caperata (emerald ripple peperomia) as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses.
That entry is for the species NC State files Rosso under; Rosso’s patent gives different parents, and the ASPCA does not list Rosso by name. More in is peperomia toxic to cats.
Uses for Peperomia Rosso
Rosso’s small size makes it easy to place. NC State Extension says Peperomia caperata is commonly used as a desktop plant or interior specimen and does well in offices under bright fluorescent lights. It also suggests containers and hanging baskets, and NC State says some peperomias suit terrariums.
In frost-free climates, NC State and the Missouri Botanical Garden say Peperomia caperata can be grown as a ground cover or at the front of a border.
Peperomia Fun Facts
The genus name Peperomia comes from two Greek words: peperi, meaning pepper, and homoios, meaning resembling. The Missouri Botanical Garden says these plants resemble, and are closely related to, true black pepper (Piper nigrum).
The species name caperata comes from the Latin for wrinkled, a nod to the deeply corrugated leaves of Peperomia caperata, which the Missouri Botanical Garden says is native to Brazil. Rosso’s ripples, by the patent’s account, come from a different pair of parents.
Other Popular Peperomia Varieties
- Peperomia argyreia (watermelon peperomia)
- Peperomia Silver Frost
- Peperomia clusiifolia
- Peperomia prostrata (String of Turtles)
- Peperomia obtusifolia
- Peperomia Moonlight
Does your Rosso live on a desk, a shelf or a windowsill? Tell us where yours is thriving!
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you care for a Peperomia Rosso?
Give it bright, indirect light, let the soil dry out between waterings and keep it above 60°F. Clemson Extension recommends a well-drained houseplant or cactus mix and light feeding only in spring and summer, and warns that direct sun may scorch the leaves. The Missouri Botanical Garden sets 60°F as the minimum winter temperature for Peperomia caperata. Clemson also says root rot from overwatering is the most common disease in peperomias.
How often should I water Peperomia Rosso?
Water when the soil has dried, not on a fixed schedule. Clemson Extension says peperomia prefers to dry out between waterings and will drop its leaves if overwatered. The Missouri Botanical Garden says to water moderately but consistently in the growing season, letting the soil almost dry on top, and to water less from fall through winter. Let the excess drain before the pot goes back in its saucer.
Is Peperomia Rosso a type of Peperomia caperata?
NC State Extension lists ‘Rosso’ as a Peperomia caperata cultivar with thin, pointed leaves that are red underneath. Its U.S. plant patent, however, describes ‘Eden Rosso’ as a seedling from a cross of Peperomia marmorata and Peperomia metallica, made by a Dutch breeder in 2010. You may see it labeled under either name.
Is Peperomia Rosso safe for cats and dogs?
Clemson Extension says most peperomias are considered safe for pets and suggests checking the ASPCA’s plant list. The ASPCA lists Peperomia caperata, the species NC State files Rosso under, as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses; Rosso’s patent gives different parents, and the ASPCA entry is for the species, not Rosso by name.
Why are my Peperomia Rosso’s leaves dropping?
Overwatering is a common cause. Clemson Extension says peperomia drops its leaves when overwatered and that root rot from overwatering is its most common disease. Let the soil dry out between waterings and empty the saucer. University of Illinois Extension also recommends avoiding heavy, poorly drained mixes and keeping the soil on the dry side to prevent stem rot.