How To Propagate Peperomia (Baby Rubber Plant)

Want more peperomias without buying more peperomias? Good news: these little plants are some of the easiest houseplants to multiply.

Clemson Extension says peperomias are easy to propagate. A UF/IFAS foliage research note written for Florida growers goes further: as a group, it says, peperomia cuttings are easy to root.

You have four options: stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, rooting in water, and, for some species, division. The best one depends on which peperomia plant you have, and whether its leaves are variegated.

Which Propagation Method Fits Your Peperomia?

UF/IFAS says the type of cutting to use depends on the species, the variegation pattern of some cultivars and the size of plant you want. Terminal (tip) stem cuttings work with all types. Here’s how the methods line up:

• Stem cuttings: Work for every type. UF/IFAS says the baby rubber plant (Peperomia obtusifolia) is propagated by stem cuttings, and red-edge peperomia (P. clusiifolia) and P. scandens usually are.
• Leaf cuttings: The usual route for rosette types. UF/IFAS says watermelon peperomia (P. argyreia), emerald ripple peperomia (P. caperata) and ivy-leaf peperomia (P. griseoargentea) are usually grown from leaf cuttings.
• Water: Clemson Extension says some species, such as the baby rubber plant, are easily propagated in water.
• Division: NC State Extension lists division alongside leaf and stem cuttings, depending on the species, and a UF/IFAS Extension fact sheet lists division for the baby rubber plant.

Variegated plant? Use stem cuttings. UF/IFAS says you need stem cuttings with one or more buds to propagate variegated cultivars. Leaf cuttings suit the rosette types listed above.

When to Take Peperomia Cuttings

Iowa State University Extension says early spring is the ideal time to propagate houseplants by cuttings, although you can propagate most houseplants successfully year-round.

Spring also suits the parent plant: University of Arkansas Extension advises waiting for spring weather before cutting peperomias back or repotting them. Trim a leggy plant and root the trimmings at the same time.

Fall works too, for example when you bring a plant back indoors after a summer outside. Clemson says peperomias can go outdoors once nights stay at 60°F or higher, in a bright but shady spot. Cuttings taken in a cool fall house may need extra warmth (see the temperature section below).

Choose the Right Rooting Mix for Peperomia Propagation

A rooting mix has to hold both water and air. Iowa State says perlite is a great rooting medium for cuttings, and that popular mixtures include perlite with peat moss and sand with peat moss. It says potting soil on its own often doesn’t drain or breathe well enough, so use it only as part of a mix.

Commercial growers want the same thing. UF/IFAS says media for peperomia propagation should be very well-drained and as pathogen-free as possible, and that peat-lite mixes with coarse particles such as perlite work well because they provide aeration. A simple perlite-and-peat moss blend fits both recommendations.

Use clean containers with drainage holes, at least 2 inches deep so cuttings stay upright, and moisten the mix before you start (Iowa State).

Steps to Follow for Peperomia Stem Cuttings

This method pulls together the steps from Clemson Extension and Iowa State Extension:

• Pick a healthy stem. Clemson says to cut a 3 to 5 inch piece; Iowa State says 3 to 6 inches with at least two nodes (the joints where leaves attach). Use clean, sharp pruners or a knife.
• Strip the lower leaves. Clemson says to remove the leaves on the lower third of the cutting. Keep the top leaves.
• Add rooting hormone if you like. Clemson’s steps include a dip in rooting hormone; Iowa State calls it optional and warns that too much can sometimes slow root development. Pour a little rooting hormone into a separate dish instead of dipping into the container.
• Stick the cutting. Make a hole with a pencil or chopstick, then insert the stem with at least one node below the surface and no leaves buried (Iowa State). Firm the mix around it.
• Water and drain. Water the rooting mix and let it drain for a few minutes.
• Cover loosely. Clemson suggests covering with clear plastic. Iowa State says high humidity is essential for rooting, but don’t seal the bag tightly, so air can still move. Use chopsticks or straws to keep the plastic off the leaves.
• Give it bright, indirect light. Keep cuttings out of direct sun (Clemson). Iowa State says too much light can burn foliage under plastic, while too little slows rooting.
• Check often. Moisten the mix if it dries, and adjust light, humidity or temperature as needed (Iowa State).
• Label it. Rooting more than one kind of peperomia? A plant tag saves guesswork later.

Only one or two cuttings? Root them right in a small pot. UF/IFAS says Florida growers commonly stick two tip cuttings, each with two to four leaves, in a 3-inch pot, and that 3-inch pots are the size they produce most.

Temperature and Timing: How Long Until Roots?

Warmth speeds things up. In its general houseplant guidance, Iowa State says cuttings root faster in warm air and rooting media, and that an air temperature of 65 to 75°F is ideal.

For good results, it suggests a heat mat to bring the rooting mix to 75 to 80°F. That bottom heat is handy for fall cuttings in a cool house.

Be patient. Iowa State says most houseplant stem cuttings form roots in 3 to 6 weeks. UF/IFAS says Florida growers need 3 to 5 weeks to root and finish peperomias in 3-inch pots, depending on cutting size and season. When the roots are about an inch long, pot the new plant (Iowa State).

Peperomia Propagation With Leaf Cuttings

Leaf cuttings are the classic way to multiply a watermelon peperomia and other rosette types. Here’s how, from Iowa State Extension and Clemson Extension:

• Cut a firm, healthy leaf with a sharp knife, keeping 1 to 1½ inches of the petiole (leaf stem) attached (Iowa State). Clemson says at least an inch.
• Treat the end of the petiole with rooting hormone if you want.
• Insert the petiole into the rooting mix at a 45-degree angle and firm the mix around it.
• Water, let it drain, and give the cutting the same warmth, bright indirect light and humidity as a stem cutting.

On its leaf-petiole page, which lists peperomia among the houseplants best propagated this way, Iowa State says roots usually form in three to four weeks, and small plantlets appear at the base of each petiole in six to eight weeks.

Clemson says you can then remove the new plants and pot them. Separate them by gently pulling them apart or cutting them if needed. Iowa State says the original leaf can come off once it browns or the new plant is established, but you don’t have to remove it.

Can Peperomia Root in Water?

Yes, some can. Clemson says some species, such as the baby rubber plant, are easily propagated in water. Take cuttings 4 to 6 inches long, remove the lower leaves and cut just below a leaf node. Place the cutting in a small container of water in bright, indirect light. After roots and new leaves form, pot it up.

There’s a catch. Iowa State says roots that form in water are coarser and not well adapted to potting soil, so a newly potted cutting may wilt, drop leaves or brown at the tips.

Change the water once or twice a week, never let the water level drop below the roots, and transplant when the roots are about 1 inch long. Steady care after potting helps it recover.

So water is a place to root a peperomia, not a permanent home: both Clemson’s and Iowa State’s water methods end with potting the new plant.

Dividing a Peperomia

Division is the fourth option. NC State Extension lists division as a way to propagate peperomias, depending on the species, and UF/IFAS lists division for the baby rubber plant. The natural time to repot is in spring: gently separate the plant into sections, each with its own roots and leaves, and pot each one.

What About Growing Peperomia From Seed?

Seed is not the usual route. UF/IFAS says peperomias are propagated commercially by cuttings, and Clemson, Iowa State and NC State describe cuttings, water rooting and division rather than seed. For a variegated plant, stick with stem cuttings, as UF/IFAS advises.

Caring for Your New Peperomia Plants

Peperomias have small, fine roots, so handle them gently. University of Arkansas Extension says peperomias have a small root system and can be easily overwatered, especially in winter, and that they are usually best grown in relatively small pots and allowed to dry out a bit between waterings.

UF/IFAS says peperomia roots are very fine, easily damaged by excess salts and very sensitive to waterlogged soil.

Pot rooted cuttings in a well-drained houseplant or cactus potting mix, as Clemson recommends.

Clemson says peperomias prefer to dry out between waterings and that root rot from overwatering is their most common disease, so drain the pot before setting it back in its saucer.

Once the young plant is established, Iowa State’s houseplant guide says to begin regular fertilizing; for peperomias, Clemson advises feeding only in spring and summer, when the plant is actively growing, with a low-strength liquid fertilizer used occasionally.

Is Peperomia Safe Around Pets?

Good news for pet owners. The ASPCA lists the baby rubber plant (Peperomia obtusifolia) as non-toxic to dogs and cats. Clemson says most peperomias are considered safe for pets and points to the ASPCA’s plant list for more information, so check your species there before sharing cuttings.

Growing Plants from Cuttings Is a Valuable Skill

Peperomias can get leggy over time. Clemson says that to make a plant look fuller, you can prune a stem above a leaf node so the plant will branch. The University of Arkansas Extension says you can keep bushy types compact and tidy with occasional pinching.

Those trimmings are your next cuttings. Root them, then keep the young plants, replace a tired parent, or share them with friends and family. Who wouldn’t want another watermelon peperomia?

Which peperomia are you propagating this year? Tell us in the comments!