Silvery leaves lined with dark veins, fleshy red stems and a neat, compact shape: that is Peperomia albovittata, most often sold as the cultivar ‘Piccolo Banda’. It is a small, slow-growing houseplant that fits a desk, a shelf or a windowsill, and it asks for very little.
Peperomias, like the watermelon peperomia, belong to the black pepper family, Piperaceae.
NC State Extension says the genus has over 1,000 species, native to the tropical and subtropical areas of Central and South America, Africa, Southeast Asia and parts of Australia. Kew’s World Checklist of Vascular Plants, published through GBIF, lists Peperomia albovittata’s native range as Ecuador.
Peperomia Albovittata Quick Care Tips
- Botanical name: Peperomia albovittata; the cultivar sold most often is ‘Piccolo Banda’
- Common names: Piccolo Banda peperomia; radiator plant (used for the whole genus)
- Family and origin: Piperaceae; native to Ecuador (Kew’s World Checklist of Vascular Plants, via GBIF)
- Growability: Easy, low maintenance
- Hardiness zones: USDA 10a to 12b for peperomias in general (NC State Extension)
- Size: Small; the patent application’s 33-week-old ‘Piccolo Banda’ measured about 4 inches tall and 10 inches wide
- Flowering: Rarely blooms as a houseplant; flowers are small spikes, not showy
- Light: Bright, indirect light; no direct sun
- Temperature: Warm rooms away from cold drafts; outdoors only after nights stay at 60°F or higher (Clemson Extension)
- Humidity: Average home humidity; a humidifier helps in dry winter air
- Soil: Well-drained houseplant or cactus potting mix
- Water: Let the soil dry out between waterings; never leave it standing in water
- Fertilizer: Spring and summer only; low-strength liquid occasionally, or slow-release granules once a year
- Pests and problems: Mealybugs, spider mites, fungus gnats, scale and whiteflies; root rot from overwatering; leaf spot from wet leaves
- Propagation: Leaf cuttings or stem cuttings
- Pets: Not listed by the ASPCA; several other peperomias are listed as non-toxic to dogs and cats
What’s in a Name? Species vs. ‘Piccolo Banda’
Here is a mix-up worth clearing up. Peperomia albovittata is a true species. Its species record on GBIF (the Global Biodiversity Information Facility) dates its description to 1898, and the Kew World Checklist of Vascular Plants data in that record gives its native range as Ecuador. ‘Piccolo Banda’ is a cultivar of that species, not a separate plant.
The U.S. plant patent application for ‘Piccolo Banda’, filed in 2016 for the Dutch company Eden Collection B.V., says it came from crossing two unnamed Peperomia albovittata cultivars in 2013 in Sappemeer, the Netherlands.
The breeder picked it out in 2014 as a single plant among the resulting seedlings and first multiplied it from leaf cuttings that same year. NC State Extension also lists a second cultivar, ‘Rana Verde’, with thick, deep green, round, heart-shaped leaves.
You may also see this plant labeled ivy leaf peperomia. That name belongs to a different species. The ASPCA, NC State Extension and UF/IFAS Extension all use ivy-leaf peperomia for Peperomia griseoargentea.
What about radiator plant? NC State says that common name, used for the whole genus, refers to peperomias’ liking for warm conditions.
It also says the genus name comes from the Greek peperi (pepper) and homoios (resembling), a nod to their cousin, black pepper. One you may already know is the baby rubber plant (the name Clemson Extension and the ASPCA use), Peperomia obtusifolia.
Peperomia Albovittata ‘Piccolo Banda’ Care
Size and Growth
NC State Extension describes ‘Piccolo Banda’ as compact and semi-succulent, with silvery green leaves, dark veins and fleshy red stems.
The patent application describes small, heart-shaped, light green leaves with brown veins on the upper surface, held in rosettes on short, thick stems. Its measured 33-week-old plant was 10.8 cm tall and 24.5 cm wide (about 4 by 10 inches), with leaves about 4.4 cm long and 3.7 cm wide.
Peperomias in general stay small. NC State calls them slow-growing and gives 6 to 12 inches high and wide for the genus, and Clemson Extension says peperomia typically grows 8 to 15 inches tall and wide, and that most species grow at a moderate rate.
If the look seems familiar, there is a reason. The patent application names ‘Eden Rosso’ and ‘Napoli Nights’ as the closest cultivars for comparison.
NC State lists ‘Rosso’ and ‘Frost’ among the cultivars of Peperomia caperata, although the U.S. plant patent for ‘Eden Rosso’ (PP24,379) describes it as a seedling from a cross of P. marmorata and P. metallica. See our guides to red ripple peperomia, Peperomia Rosso and Peperomia Frost.
Flowering
Don’t expect much of a show. NC State says peperomia blooms are small, non-showy, brown and greenish-white spikes, and that the plants rarely bloom as houseplants. The patent application says ‘Piccolo Banda’ hadn’t produced flowers when it was described.
If yours does send up spikes, Clemson Extension says they appear in spring and summer while the plant is actively growing, resemble a rat’s tail, and that removing them lets the plant put its energy into leaves.
Light
Bright, indirect light is ideal. Clemson Extension suggests indirect light from an east- or south-facing window, and says peperomia can even tolerate somewhat low light near a large north-facing window. NC State says peperomias prefer bright indirect light but tolerate low light.
Direct sun is the thing to avoid. NC State says direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, and Clemson’s peperomia page says the same. If a south or west window gets hot afternoon sun, set the plant a few feet back or behind a sheer curtain.
Related: What are the secrets to successfully growing a San Marino plant?
Temperature
Think warm and steady. NC State Extension says to protect peperomias from cold drafts, so keep yours away from air-conditioning vents, drafty doors and cold glass in winter. Outdoors, NC State lists USDA zones 10a to 12b for the genus.
Want to bring it outside in summer? Clemson Extension says peperomia can go outdoors once night temperatures are consistently 60°F or higher. Start it in deep shade to acclimate, then keep it in a bright, shady spot all summer, out of direct sun.
For reference, the plants measured for the patent application were grown in a glass greenhouse at 18 to 25°C (about 64 to 77°F) by day and 15 to 18°C (about 59 to 64°F) at night.
Humidity
No humidity tray required. NC State says peperomias can thrive in most homes’ humidity levels but suggests a humidifier if your home is very dry, and Clemson says the plant benefits from a humidifier in winter.
Both also say to keep the leaves dry. NC State advises avoiding wet leaves and ensuring good air circulation to prevent leaf spots, and Clemson says you can prevent fungal leaf spots by keeping leaves dry when you water. That makes a humidifier a better choice than misting.
Watering
Here is where most peperomias get into trouble. UF/IFAS Extension notes that many peperomias are succulent-like, with fleshy leaves that can store water. Clemson Extension says peperomia prefers to dry out between waterings and that overwatering will cause it to drop its leaves.
So water when the soil has dried out, then let the pot drain completely. Clemson says to let it drain before setting it back in the saucer so the roots never sit in water. Use a pot with drainage holes. NC State says root rot and yellowing or curling leaves point to overwatering.
Fertilizing
Go light. Clemson Extension says to fertilize peperomia only when it is actively growing in spring and summer. A low-strength liquid fertilizer can be used occasionally during the growing season, or a slow-release granular fertilizer once a year. Follow the product label for the amount, and skip feeding in fall and winter.
Shop: Peters Classic 20-20-20 fertilizer
Soil and Repotting
Drainage matters more than any special recipe. Clemson Extension recommends planting peperomia in a well-drained houseplant or cactus potting mix, and its companion page suggests adding perlite if you tend to overwater. NC State recommends a moist, well-drained loam-and-sand mix.
Repotting is rarely needed. Clemson says peperomia does not need repotting every year and can stay in the same pot for several years. Clemson also says to plant it in a pot slightly larger than the grower’s pot it came in. NC State adds that peperomias are slow growers and will not need repotting often.
Grooming
Not much to do here. Clemson Extension says to trim off old leaves when needed, and to make a plant look fuller, prune a stem just above a leaf node so it branches. Pinch off any dead or damaged leaves as they show up.
How To Propagate Peperomia Albovittata
NC State Extension says peperomias are propagated by leaf cuttings, stem cuttings or division, depending on the species. For ‘Piccolo Banda’, the patent application lists leaf cuttings, which is how the breeder first multiplied it.
Leaf cuttings. Clemson Extension says to remove a leaf with at least an inch of the petiole (leaf stem) and insert it into a rooting medium. New plants form at the base of the petiole, and you can remove and pot them once they grow.
Stem cuttings. Clemson says to cut a 3- to 5-inch piece of stem, remove the leaves on the lower third, dip the end in rooting hormone and insert it into potting soil or a rooting medium. Cover it with clear plastic and keep it out of direct sunlight.
Be patient. In the breeder’s tests at 18 to 20°C (about 64 to 68°F), leaf cuttings started roots in about 10 days in summer and 14 days in winter, but producing a rooted cutting took about 80 days in summer and 100 days in winter.
Related: Check out this article on How To Propagate Peperomia
Peperomia Albovittata Pests and Problems
Pests are occasional, not constant. Clemson Extension lists mealybugs, spider mites, fungus gnats, scale and whiteflies as the pests most often found on peperomias, and NC State adds aphids.
The bigger risk is overwatering. Clemson says root rot, caused by overwatering, is the most common disease of peperomia, and that you can prevent fungal leaf spots by keeping the leaves dry when you water.
For mealybugs, UC IPM says that for serious problems on houseplants, you can dab them with a solution of 70% (or less) isopropyl alcohol and water, test a small part of the plant first, and watch for leaf burn. It also says insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils and neem oil applied directly to young mealybugs can reduce their numbers.
Not every source agrees on alcohol: UF/IFAS Extension says alcohol is phytotoxic and should not be applied to plant tissues, and warns that dish detergents can damage leaves. If you try alcohol, test first.
Is Peperomia Albovittata Toxic to Pets?
The ASPCA does not list Peperomia albovittata by name. It does list several of its relatives, the baby rubber plant (Peperomia obtusifolia), watermelon peperomia (P. argyreia), emerald ripple peperomia (P. caperata) and ivy peperomia (P. griseoargentea), as non-toxic to dogs and cats. Clemson Extension says most peperomia are considered safe for pets.
That said, it is an ornamental, not food. Keep it out of reach of curious kids and pets, and call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center if a pet eats a lot of any plant.
Suggested Peperomia Albovittata ‘Piccolo Banda’ Uses
With its compact rosette and silvery, striped leaves, ‘Piccolo Banda’ breaks up a shelf full of plain green houseplants.
NC State Extension says peperomias are perfect for desks or tabletops at home or in the office, with some species suited to hanging baskets and others to terrariums. Since ‘Piccolo Banda’ grows as a rosette rather than a trailer, a tabletop, a desk or a dish garden suits it best.
It also makes an easy gift plant for a beginner. Clemson calls peperomias low-maintenance plants, and this one needs little more than bright, indirect light and a careful hand with the watering can.
The Bottom Line
Peperomia albovittata ‘Piccolo Banda’ is a small, forgiving houseplant. Give it bright, indirect light; let the soil dry out between waterings; keep its leaves dry; feed it lightly in spring and summer; and keep it out of cold drafts. Do that, and those silvery striped leaves will brighten a desk for years.
Do you grow a Piccolo Banda? Tell us where yours lives and how it’s doing!
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Peperomia albovittata the same as ‘Piccolo Banda’?
Not quite. Peperomia albovittata is the species, and Kew’s World Checklist of Vascular Plants, as published through GBIF, lists its native range as Ecuador. ‘Piccolo Banda’ is a cultivar of that species. Its U.S. plant patent application says it came from a 2013 cross of two unnamed albovittata cultivars in Sappemeer, the Netherlands, and was selected there in 2014. So ‘Piccolo Banda’ is one form of the species; NC State Extension lists ‘Rana Verde’ as another.
How often should I water Peperomia albovittata?
Water when the soil has dried out, not on a fixed schedule. Clemson Extension says peperomia prefers to dry out between waterings and drops its leaves if it is overwatered. Let the water drain before the pot goes back in its saucer. NC State Extension says root rot and yellowing or curling leaves point to overwatering.
How much light does Piccolo Banda peperomia need?
Bright, indirect light suits it best. Clemson Extension suggests indirect light from an east- or south-facing window and says peperomia can tolerate somewhat low light near a large north-facing window. NC State Extension says peperomias tolerate low light but that direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, so keep it out of the path of direct sun.
Is Peperomia albovittata safe for cats and dogs?
It is not listed by name, but several other peperomias are listed as non-toxic. The ASPCA lists the baby rubber plant, watermelon peperomia, emerald ripple peperomia and ivy peperomia as non-toxic to dogs and cats. Clemson Extension says most peperomia are considered safe for pets. It is still an ornamental, not a treat, so call your veterinarian if a pet chews on it and seems unwell.
How do you propagate Peperomia albovittata?
Leaf cuttings are the method its breeder used: ‘Piccolo Banda’ was first multiplied by leaf cuttings, according to its patent application. Clemson Extension says to take a leaf with at least an inch of leaf stem and insert it in a rooting medium; new plants form at the base of the stem. Be patient: in the breeder’s tests at 18 to 20°C, the patent application reports a rooted cutting took about 80 days in summer and 100 in winter.