There are a lot of impressively large plant genera out there, but Schefflera (shef-LER-uh) makes for some stiff competition for most impressive.
With a native range spanning Africa, Asia, and the Southwest Pacific, this genus has more than 600 species, making them half of all the plants in the Araliaceae family.
Of course, not every species is grown as a houseplant. The most well known are the umbrella plant and dwarf umbrella trees (Schefflera actinophylla and Schefflera arboricola (dwarf Schefflera), respectively).
With individual species ranging in height from 13′ to 33’ feet, these plants have wonderful, often variegated foliage and can be fast growers when planted outdoors.
One issue growers have run into, however, is with propagation.
While not difficult to propagate overall, some methods may take more skill and patience than others.
How Do You Propagate Schefflera Plants?
There are essentially four ways to propagate any Schefflera: air layering, stem cuttings (via soil or water), and from seed.
While some methods are easier than others, mastering a few simple steps will give you a much better chance of success in each option.
Preparation and Timing
No matter which method you use, a little preparation can make a big difference.
When to Propagate
Spring into early summer is the best time for propagation, as you’ll want to give your schefflera time to establish before winter sets in.
Tools
Always be sure to sterilize and sharpen any tools prior to use.
Rubbing alcohol or isopropyl alcohol works great, and it’s a good idea to dip your tools between each cut to ensure you don’t accidentally spread the disease.
Inspect
Speaking of disease, you’ll want to examine your Schefflera for signs of illness, including infections or pest infestation of spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, and scale insects.
These should be dealt with before harvesting seeds or clippings when possible, and any branches or leaves you plan to use must be healthy, or the new plant may not survive.
Soil and Water
With all these methods, you will want to use room-temperature distilled water or natural rainwater, as tap water may reduce your chances of success.
For all methods, you will want to ensure any potting soil used is rich, loamy, and well-draining, with a slightly acidic pH.
Adding organic compost, perlite, or lava stone to an orchid mix can make for a great starter soil.
A Good Spot
Make sure your plantlets or seedlings have a spot with bright, indirect sunlight, no drafts or big temperature shifts, and where they won’t be disturbed.
Air Layering
This method can be a lot of fun but requires a steady hand. It works especially well on top-heavy plants.
Begin by finding a healthy, flexible stem and remove a ring of bark approximately 1” inch wide.
You may either bend the branch so the cut area is buried or use plastic wrap.
In the latter case, fill the plastic with moist sphagnum moss and carefully wrap it around the cut area to make it airtight.
Whether you use a pot or plastic, keep the medium moist.
After a few weeks, roots will form where the cut was made.
Once the roots are approximately 1” inch long, you can cut the limb below the new root line and transplant it to a pot or outdoors.
Leaf Cuttings
This method is great for when you’ve just done some light pruning, but not all plants will want to reproduce this way.
See: How and When to Prune Schefflera plants.
As this can depend on the specific species or the temperament of the particular plant, this should not be your go-to method.
You will want healthy leaves approximately 4 to 6” inches long, cut at the base of the petiole.
Stick the base of the petiole approximately ½” inch deep into a small pot or planting tray of soil.
Keep the soil slightly moist (you may wish to use a clear plastic bag to create a humidity tent during this time) while the plantlet takes root, which will generally take about 3 months.
Stem Cuttings (Soil)
There are a few ways to harvest cuttings, but the following method is one of the easiest.
Due to its low risk of mutations or failure, stem cuttings tend to be the preferred method of propagating a Schefflera.
Choose a stem and cut it with a sharp knife or hand pruners at a 45-degree angle, ensuring the cutting is at least 6” inches long. When taking several cuttings, wrap the ends in a damp paper towel.
Remove all but the top 4 to 5 leaves and dip the base in rooting hormone powder.
Next, plant the base into a pot of slightly damp soil and cover it with a clear plastic bag to keep high humidity and retain soil moisture.
Dampen the soil as needed and give the plantlet a gentle tug after 4 to 6 weeks have passed.
If the plantlet is rooted, it will resist, and you may remove the bag and treat it like a regular plant.
If the plant gives no resistance after 6 weeks, it is likely a dud and may be discarded.
Stem Cuttings (Water)
This process is almost identical to soil propagation; only you’re using a transparent container and filling it with water to submerge the bottom ½” inch or so of the stem.
The plantlet may stay vertical by resting its leaves on the container rim, or you may use string or some other material to prop it up.
As with the soil method, it will take about a month for the roots to form, the big difference being you won’t need to worry about humility and can watch the roots grow.
Be sure to top up the water as needed and change it whenever it looks cloudy.
Once the roots are 1” inch long, you can transplant your new Schefflera to its permanent home.
Seed Propagation
Perhaps the least popular method is that seeds can produce mutations and aren’t always viable.
However, harvesting fresh seeds can greatly improve your chances, and seeing what sprouts is a certain satisfaction.
The seeds must soak in hot water for at least 12 hours (a paper towel sitting in a jar lid with 140° Fahrenheit water can greatly speed up the germination process).
Sow the seeds into a nursery tray with a thin layer of soil underneath and cover with an amount roughly equal to twice the size of the seed.
Keep the soil slightly damp while the seeds germinate, which usually takes 2 to 3 months.
The seedlings may be transplanted into pots once they are about 2” inches tall.