Looking for a houseplant that doesn’t look like every other one on the shelf? Meet Peperomia ferreyrae, the pincushion peperomia, also sold as the happy bean plant.
Instead of the round, glossy leaves most people picture on a peperomia, this one grows upright stems packed with slender, bright green, bean-like leaves, and it’s drought tolerant.
It is a true species, not a hybrid or a cultivar. Peperomia ferreyrae is an accepted species, first described by the botanist T. G. Yuncker in the American Journal of Botany in 1956, and its native range is Peru. It is one of the many types of peperomia grown indoors.
The genus name has a story too. Peperomia comes from the Greek peperi (pepper) and homoios (resembling), because these plants are related to black pepper, Piper nigrum. Peperomias belong to the pepper family, Piperaceae.
Peperomia Ferreyrae Quick Care Tips
- Botanical name: Peperomia ferreyrae (described by Yuncker, 1956)
- Common names: Pincushion peperomia, happy bean plant
- Family and origin: Piperaceae (pepper family); native to Peru
- Growability: Easy, low maintenance
- Hardiness zones: USDA 10a to 12b for the genus; grow it as a houseplant elsewhere
- Size: Small; 6 to 12 inches high and wide for the genus
- Flowering: Thin, non-showy flower spikes; rarely blooms indoors
- Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates lower light; keep out of hot direct sun
- Temperature: 65 to 86°F is ideal and keep it above 50°F
- Humidity: Average home humidity is fine; a humidifier helps in a very dry winter home
- Soil: Well-drained houseplant or cactus potting mix
- Water: Let the soil dry out between waterings; water less in winter
- Fertilizer: Growing season only, at low or half strength
- Pests and problems: Mealybugs, spider mites, scale, fungus gnats, whiteflies; root rot and oedema from overwatering
- Propagation: Stem cuttings or leaf cuttings
- Pets: Most peperomias are considered pet-safe; this species has no listing of its own
Peperomia Ferreyrae Care
Size and Growth
Pincushion peperomia stays small. Peperomias in general are compact: NC State Extension says the species grow 6 to 12 inches high and wide, the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) says they are usually less than 1 foot tall, and 8 to 15 inches is also given. Growth is described as anywhere from slow to moderate; either way, they don’t need repotting every year.
Its upright stems and narrow, bean-like leaves give it a spiky, pincushion look that sets it apart from the rounded-leaf peperomias. Many peperomias store water in their fleshy leaves, and this species is drought tolerant.
Flowering
Don’t grow this one for the flowers. Peperomia blooms are thin spikes, not petals: small, non-showy, greenish-white to brown spikes, and the plants rarely bloom as houseplants. The spikes are “said to resemble a rat’s tail,” and removing them lets the plant put its energy into leaves. The foliage is the show.
Light and Temperature
Bright, indirect light is the sweet spot. An east- or south-facing window with indirect light works, and peperomias can even tolerate somewhat low light near a large north-facing window. If the plant gets direct sun, the leaves may scorch.
There’s a useful nuance: direct summer sun can scorch the foliage, but weaker winter sun is usually welcome, and too much shade leads to weak, straggly growth. An east- or west-facing windowsill, or a spot set back from a south window, works well.
Warm and steady is what peperomias like. The best range is 65 to 86°F (18 to 30°C); keep peperomias out of cold drafts and always above 50°F (10°C). The common name “radiator plant” refers to their liking for warm conditions. Keep the pot off cold windowsills in winter and away from heating vents.
Outdoors, the genus is hardy in USDA zones 10a to 12b; everywhere else it is a houseplant. Even so, you can still give it a summer vacation: peperomias can go outside once night temperatures are consistently 60°F or higher, in a bright but shady spot out of direct sun.
Humidity
Average home humidity is usually fine. Peperomias are adaptable and can thrive in the humidity of most homes, but if the home is very dry, consider a humidifier, especially in winter. Most peperomias prefer humid air but adapt to lower humidity; stand the pot on a wide tray of damp gravel if the leaves start turning brown.
Skip regular misting. Avoiding wet leaves and providing good air circulation helps prevent leaf spots, so keep the leaves dry when you water.
Watering Pincushion Peperomia
Watering is the part to get right, and the risk is too much water. Peperomia prefers to dry out between waterings, and an overwatered plant will drop its leaves. This species is drought tolerant, so avoid overwatering.
How dry is dry? Let the top few centimeters of compost dry before watering, check with your finger rather than watering on a schedule, and cut back in winter when growth slows. The University of Arkansas Extension explains why: many peperomias grow in nature as epiphytes in treetops, with a small root system, so they are easily overwatered, especially in winter.
Water until it drains, then empty the saucer. Let the pot drain before putting it back in its saucer, because leaving the pot standing in water can lead to root rot, which can kill the plant.
Brown tips? Peperomias are sensitive to fluoride in tap water, which can turn leaf tips brown, so use rainwater or filtered water, preferably at room temperature. Our brown tips guide covers the other causes.
Fertilizing
Go easy on feeding; the advice differs on how often. Either fertilize peperomias only when they are actively growing in spring and summer, using a low-strength liquid fertilizer occasionally or a slow-release granular fertilizer once a year, or feed every two weeks from April to October with a half-strength liquid fertilizer to boost growth.
Either way, the rules are the same: feed only in the growing season, go weak rather than strong, follow the label, and stop feeding over winter.
Soil and Repotting
Drainage matters more than anything else in the pot. A well-drained houseplant or cactus potting mix works, as does a moist, well-drained mix of loam and sand. Most peperomias prefer a loose, free-draining, acidic mix; one recipe is two parts peat-free ericaceous compost, one part perlite and one part medium orchid bark, or a houseplant compost with added perlite.
Don’t rush to repot. Most peperomias can stay in their original pot for two or three years, until the roots fill it or poke through the drainage holes, and spring is the best time to repot. Choose a pot only a little larger than the root ball, slightly larger than the grower’s pot: an oversized pot stays wet longer and can cause the roots to rot. The plant can stay in the same pot for several years.
Grooming and Maintenance
There’s not much to do. Pincushion peperomia stays compact and doesn’t spread over its neighbors. Trim off old leaves when needed and, to make a plant fuller, prune a stem just above a leaf node so it branches. Remove dead leaves and stems and cut back any straggly stems to encourage bushier growth.
Peperomia Ferreyrae Propagation
Like African violets, peperomias root from cuttings. Iowa State University Extension lists peperomia among the plants that propagate well from leaf petiole cuttings, and stem cuttings work too. The easiest way to propagate peperomias is with softwood cuttings in spring and summer.
Stem cuttings
- Cut a 3- to 5-inch piece of stem from the parent plant.
- Remove the leaves on the lower third of the cutting.
- Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, then insert it into potting soil or a rooting medium.
- Cover with clear plastic and keep it out of direct sunlight.
Leaf cuttings: Remove a leaf with at least an inch of its petiole (the leaf stalk) and insert it into a rooting medium; new plants form at the base of the petiole. A petiole of 1 to 1½ inches, inserted at a 45-degree angle, works the same way.
Keep cuttings warm, bright and humid. An air temperature of 65 to 75°F is ideal, cuttings need 4 to 6 hours of bright, indirect light, and a loose plastic bag or dome keeps the humidity high (don’t seal it tightly). Moisten the rooting medium when it is dry. Roots usually form in three to four weeks and small plantlets appear in six to eight weeks.
Pincushion Peperomia Pests and Problems
Pests are not common, but check now and then. Mealybugs, spider mites, fungus gnats, scale and whiteflies are the pests most often found on peperomias, and sap-sucking mealybugs, which can weaken the plants, are the ones to watch. Mealybugs look like small cottony white masses on stems and leaves; see our guide to little white bugs on plants.
For a few mealybugs on a houseplant, UC IPM says to dab them with a solution of 70% (or less) isopropyl alcohol and water, testing on a small part of the plant first and watching for leaf burn. It also says insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils and neem oil applied directly to young mealybugs can reduce their numbers. Not every extension service is comfortable with alcohol on leaves: UF/IFAS Extension lists alcohol as phytotoxic (it causes leaf burn) and says it should not be applied to plant tissues, and it advises using a registered insecticidal soap rather than a dish-detergent recipe. Test first either way.
Root rot. Root rot, caused by overwatering, is the most common disease of peperomia. Let the soil dry between waterings and never leave the pot sitting in water. Yellowing or curling leaves can be a sign of overwatering.
Corky bumps on the leaves. Those scab-like spots may be oedema: rough, corky swellings on petioles and lower leaf surfaces. Excessive soil moisture plus poor light and low temperatures predispose plants to it, most often on succulent plants in winter. Affected leaves won’t recover, but more light and less frequent watering can stop it getting worse.
Leaf drop. Over- or under-watering, chilling and big changes in a plant’s surroundings can all cause leaf drop, and leaf drop after a significant change in environment should last only about three weeks.
Is Pincushion Peperomia Safe for Pets?
Probably. Clemson Extension says most peperomias are considered safe for pets. The ASPCA has no entry for Peperomia ferreyrae, so that genus-wide line is the only pet-safety guidance these sources give for it, though the list does include other peperomias, such as the baby rubber plant (Peperomia obtusifolia), as non-toxic to dogs and cats. Keep it out of reach anyway and call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center if you’re worried.
Peperomia Ferreyrae Uses
Pincushion peperomia is grown for its unusual foliage. Peperomias are perfect for a desk or tabletop in a home or office, and some suit terrariums. Its small size makes it a natural for dish gardens, a bright windowsill or a plant for window sills and table tops.
Do you grow a happy bean plant? Tell us where it lives in your home!
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I water a pincushion peperomia?
Water when the soil has dried out, not on a schedule. Peperomias prefer to dry out between waterings and drop their leaves when overwatered. Let the top few centimeters of compost dry, check with your finger, and water less in winter. Let the pot drain and empty the saucer, because a pot left standing in water can develop root rot.
How much light does Peperomia ferreyrae need?
Bright, indirect light suits it best: indirect light from an east- or south-facing window, and peperomias tolerate somewhat low light near a large north window. Direct sun can scorch the leaves, though weaker winter sun is usually welcome and deep shade causes straggly growth.
What temperature does pincushion peperomia need?
Keep it warm and out of drafts. The best range for peperomias is 65 to 86°F; keep them always above 50°F and away from cold drafts and radiators. Peperomias can spend summer outdoors once night temperatures are consistently 60°F or higher, in a bright but shady spot out of direct sun.
Why does my peperomia have corky bumps on its leaves?
It may be oedema: rough, corky swellings on petioles and lower leaf surfaces. Excessive soil moisture plus poor light and low temperatures predispose plants to it; it occurs most often on succulent plants in winter. Affected leaves won’t recover, but improving the light and watering less often can stop the decline. Don’t let the pot sit in a saucer of water.
Is Peperomia ferreyrae toxic to cats and dogs?
Most peperomias are considered safe for pets. Peperomia ferreyrae itself has no listing of its own, so that genus-wide line is the only guidance for it; other peperomias, such as the baby rubber plant (Peperomia obtusifolia), are listed as non-toxic to dogs and cats. Keep it out of reach anyway, and call your veterinarian if you’re concerned.